Three Questions with Akiko Aoki
“AKIKAOKI’s focus for this season is not on a woman’s identity, but rather on her individuality.”


September 25, 2025


Photo: SS26 Runway, Tokyo, courtesy of AKIKOAOKI

Le Fool: The title of your new collection can be considered very suggestive and ambiguous. Could you tell us a little bit about the theme, what it means to you and why it was an important title to your collection?

Akiko Aoki: This season, the collection is titled ‘where she takes shape’. This is because AKIKAOKI’s focus for this season is not on a woman’s identity, but rather on her individuality. Looking at each look, some are formal, some are casual, and some are uniform-like. The title is meant to convey the idea that these various personalities are brought together, sometimes creating a soft halo effect and at other times forming a powerful outline of the self.



“At AKIKAOKI, ‘uniform’ is a keyword that transcends seasons.”



Le Fool: How would you describe the evolution of your work from the previous seasons to this –What has changed? What is new?

Akiko Aoki: At AKIKAOKI, “uniform” is a keyword that transcends seasons. As always, the exploration of the meaning and value of uniforms remains our foundation. However, we are now entering a phase as a brand where we are expanding that very interpretation. In other words, it is a liberation from divisive thinking. To update our definition, we thought it important to confront non-uniforms with the same aesthetics and attitude.


“In other words, it is a liberation from divisive thinking.”

Le Fool: What are the key pieces from this collection?

Akiko Aoki: The collection proposes androgynous outfits, such as sleeveless jackets made from summer wool with a flattened stand-up collar—a uniform staple—mixed with culottes and cropped pants. At the other extreme are washed sweatshirts and a polo shirt dress made from classic pique fabric. These are transformed through three-dimensional patterning techniques, which capture the female body spatially with deconstructive draping.

View the SS26 collection ‘Where She Takes Shape’